Warsaw & Krakow Sat. 8/21 - Fri. 8/27

Sat. 8/21/04

Spent the day w/ Jaba's (a friend of Olga's) son Miolai. We went to an internet cafe to download pics (I'm averaging about 80 pics/day!!!) and check email. Next, off to the Palac Kultury, which is sort of like Warsaw's version of the Empire State Building. Great view from the 30th floor, except that it was a bit hazy that day. We also looked at their exhibit on the olympics, which was pretty cool. Next, we walked around a marketplace looking for some random things I needed. Had lunch at a kebob place (they're all over the place here), which was dee-lish. Went to mall across the street for some stationary, etc. Went "home".

Had dinner & listened to some free jazz w/ Olga's friends Iola & Wojtek; jazz in Old Town square, dinner in New Town at the Belle Epoch restaurant. The restaurant was very uniquely & beautifully decorated. Walked around New Town.

Sun. 8/22/04

Olga, Dsiadek (Polish for "grandfather") & I walked around Jewish Ghetto via Rick Steve's walking tour & their knowledge :). Had lunch. Went home & played Scrabble w/ Olga. Went to Olga's friend Anusia's for dinner. She has a stunningly beautiful home. We had great conversation. Went for dinner at a Thai restaurant.

Mon. 8/23/04

Dsiadek & I spent the day together at the Jewish Museum/Cultural Institute and Jewish cemetary. I tried to do a bit of research on family who was sent to a concentration camp & never heard of again (other family members of ours were found hiding in the forest by Nazis & shot) but I'm going to have to research it in Prague, since they were from Czech Republic.

We watched a 37-minute film re: the Holocaust, which was very difficult for him to watch. He helped Jews during the Holocaust, bringing food & milk to starving Jewish children. He lived on the border of the Jewish Ghetto (still does, except it's no longer a Jewish Ghetto). He is 74, so he was a boy/teen during this time. We had lunch at Pizza Hut...LOL! It was actually really nice there (fast food spots are much nicer over here) and I had a vegetable wrap.

The cemetary was really special. We didn't have too much time to spend there though, so I'll have to go back another time.

Tues. 8/24/04

Took an early morning train to Krakow. Sat next to & spoke w/ a nun. Checked into my FABULOUS (& cheap) hotel "Bed & Breakfast", right off the main square. The square is actually the largest medieval square in Europe. I had lunch, unpacked & then showered & went down for tea at the TriBeca Cafe :). Wandered around the square & bought gifts for people from the merchants. Had dinner (both lunch & dinner were superb, by the way).

Wed. 8/25/04

After breakfast, I went to the hotel's reception desk to ask a question and happened upon a young woman asking about how to get to Auschwitz. I told her that I was going, if she wanted to join me. Spent day w/ her (her name's Ipin -- she went to NYU for a year & now lives in SF) at Auschwitz & Birkenau. I was really glad I went, even though it was painful; I really felt more connected to my family & ancestors -- it was an important journey for me.

Ipin and I got separated at the end of the day & as I was leaving the hotel for dinner, she was coming in, so I waited & we had a late supper together. We had a wonderful time. Also, Ipin is Taiwanese, but moved to the U.S. at age 13. Her father is half German, half Chinese & Buddhist & her mom is Chinese & Catholic. Ipin had recently been baptized & was on somewhat of a pilgrimage. We had some really interesting conversations & really felt like old friends right away.

Thurs. 8/26/04

Ipin had hired a guide & invited me along for free! She had scheduled her from 9am-12pm, but ended up hiring her all day (we were w/ her until 7pm!!!). It was an absolutely amazing day, touring the entire city. We ended in Kazmierz (the Jewish quarter) & saw many places where Schindler's list was filmed. Next, our guide drove us back to the hotel to pick up our bags & we went to Sister Faustina's cathedral, where Ipin decided to stay for mass. I headed over to Klezmer Hois for dinner & music & then caught a night train to Prague. Roomed w/ a British family who were really cool. Also met a sweet Polish guy while waiting for my train & a Canadian guy in the middle of the night after having trouble sleeping after the border crossing/passport check.

Fri. 8/27/04

I was told to go the wrong direction from the train station, so am about to catch a bus to my hostel :). "Talk"to you guys later...